‘Tis the Season for Squash
by Christina Pirello

As the holiday season approaches, people naturally begin to think more and more about food. We see article after article, advertisement after advertisement, talking about the joy of the feast, from preparation to decoration to serving.

During the holiday feasting, seemingly dedicated to consumption, what do you serve your vegetarian guests? Are they doomed to create a meal from your side dishes? Do you panic and serve them tofu and sprout burgers? Lucky for you, it’s winter squash season as well, with all the yummy elegance of holiday feasting as nature intended.

Winter squash is the fruit of an annual plant belonging to the same family as melon and cucumber and includes a staggering array of choices. Cultivated squash as we know it, is descendent from wild squash, believed to have originated in the region between Mexico and Guatemala, in Central America, later spreading to North and South America.

Having been consumed for over 10,000 years, squash was originally more prized for its seeds, as early wild squash was less fleshy. Over the years, cultivation has led the squash we know and love today, with its seeds housed in succulent, moist, sensually sweet flesh. Most varieties of squash are divided into summer and winter squash. Summer squash is delicate and highly perishable, while winter squash is hearty and sweet…and my personal favorite.

Winter squash are harvested when fully ripe. They vary in shape, size and color, but have in common a denser, much sweeter flesh that turns delightfully creamy when cooked. Like melon, winter squash has an inner cavity that houses an abundance of edible seeds, which, when washed, dried and roasted are a yummy treat, loaded with nutrients. Many people think that the hard outer skin of winter squash is inedible, but in fact, can be enjoyed with a few exceptions. And since many delicate, surface nutrients reside in the skin, you may want to reconsider peeling them.

With many varieties already available-and continually expanding, winter squash can be enjoyed all season, with no risk of boredom. Here are just a few varieties: butternut (pear-shaped, beige squash, with rich orange flesh), buttercup (round deep green-skinned squash with bright orange, intensely sweet flesh), turban squash (green, with colored stripes or speckles on the skin, with a pale golden flesh that is drier than most, but very sweet, with a hint of hazelnut-like flavor), hubbard (rough, tough outer skin, either orange or blue-green, that is not really edible, with bright orange flesh, can be quite large), acorn (wide-ribbed squash, with a tough skin that is very difficult to digest, so I recommend peeling, pale orange flesh that is not overly sweet…ideal for stuffing), pumpkin (hard outer skin and fibrous orange flesh, lends itself more to jack-o-lanterns than cooking, not all that sweet, but when combined with other winter squash can be quite brilliant, also great for stuffing), kabocha (bright orange skin and flesh, intensely sweet and creamy when cooked, great for stuffing).

When choosing winter squash, look for undamaged, slightly glossy skin. Look for medium size, as overly large squash can be fibrous and overly small ones will lack flavor. They will keep, in a cool dry place, for several weeks to months, depending on the variety of squash you choose.

Once you have cut a squash, if you will not be using it all, remove all the seeds, even from the unused portion, wrap in plastic and store in the refrigerator. It will keep for 1-2 weeks. If you leave the seeds in the unused portion, the squash will sour easily.

Rich in complex carbohydrates, potassium, vitamin A and C, folic acid, as well as pantothenic acid, squash is not only delicious, but an incredible source of fuel.

Here’s my favorite holiday squash recipe…perfect for the vegetarian at your table…or anyone who enjoys yummy food.

Winter Squash with Wild Rice Stuffing
Choose a hubbard, larger buttercup, kabocha or acorn squash for this festive, centerpiece dish..

Filling
5-6 ripe, but firm pears, halved, cored, thinly sliced
juice of 1 lemon
pinch sea salt
1/4 cup light olive oil
2/3 cup brown rice syrup
pinch ground cinnamon
generous pinch powdered ginger
grated zest of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons raisins

Cake
2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
generous pinch sea salt
1/4 cup light olive oil
1/4 cup brown rice syrup
2-2/3 cup Eden Rice & Soy Blend or vanilla soy or rice milk


To prepare the filling, toss the pears in lemon juice with salt and allow to stand for 5 minutes. In a cast iron, 10-inch, deep skillet, combine oil, rice syrup, spices and lemon zest. Cook over medium-low heat until loose, about 2 minutes. Drain pear slices and arrange in the skillet. Top with raisins and cook over low heat, until dark and caramelized, about 15 minutes. Arrange in a decorative pattern on the skillet surface. Turn off heat.

Preheat oven to 325º. Make the cake by combining flour, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Whisk briskly. Stir in oil and rice syrup. Slowly mix in Blend to create a smooth batter. Spoon carefully over arranged pears to evenly cover the skillet. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until the center of the cake springs back to the touch or an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Remove from oven, run a sharp knife around the rim of the skillet to loosen the cake and immediately invert it onto a platter. Carefully remove any fruit that is left behind and replace it on the surface of the cake.

Makes 6-8 servings.