Sassy Saffron

With spring, I start to think of ways to refresh my cooking. After a long, cold winter of hearty soups and stews, thick soups and warming grain, bean and vegetable dishes, I want light, fresh, crisp and richly flavored foods to carry me into summer. One of the ways that I keep the interest high is to ‘spice things up a bit.’ And while there are lots of wonderful strongly flavored spices to add sparkle to any dish, spring calls for delicacy…for subtle nuance. My choice? Saffron…

A variety of crocus, saffron is said to have originated in Asia Minor. The stigmas and flowers of this particular crocus are used as both a seasoning and natural coloring agent. Saffron is said to be the most ancient of all spices, dating back to about 1500 BC. Used by ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, saffron was introduced to Spain in the 8th century by the Moors. The widespread use of saffron did not occur until the 11th century by the Crusaders.

Of the various strains of saffron available to us, ‘sativus’ is the most highly prized, grown in various parts of the world, including Greece, Italy, South America and the United States. The price of saffron, per ounce, matches that of pure gold in many parts of the world.

Saffron crocuses are purplish, red-veined flowers and grow to about 6 inches in height. Their three orange-brown stigmas are hand-harvested and dried. With a pungent aroma and a hot, bitter flavor, it takes about 100,000 flowers to produce just under one pound of saffron. As a result, saffron is often mixed with safflower blossoms, arnica petals and marigold flowers or mixed with water or oil to increase its weight. Store saffron in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.

To insure that you are getting pure saffron, purchase the stigmas instead of the powder. The best saffron is orange in color and has a warm, spicy flavor. Use saffron sparingly in cooking…a small pinch added at the beginning of cooking is enough to flavor an entire dish. A staple of Arabic and Indian cooking, saffron is used to flavor soups, stews, curries, rice…even pastries…and now enjoys wide appeal in Mediterranean cooking as well.

Said to be a digestive and stomach aid, saffron is also used to stimulate menstruation and relieve indigestion.

Here is one of my favorite recipes using saffron…

Prepare the polenta by whisking together the water, cornmeal, grits, salt, oil and saffron in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-low heat, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the center of the polenta bubbles and pops, about 35 minutes. Transfer the polenta to a lightly oiled, shallow dish and set aside until firm, about an hour.

For the vegetables, place oil, garlic and onion in a wok or skillet, over medium heat. When the vegetables begin to sizzle, add a pinch of salt and saute for 2 minutes. Stir in mushrooms, a pinch of salt and saute until mushrooms release their juices into the pan. Stir in fennel and carrots, a pinch of salt and saute for 1 minute. Add mirin, tomatoes, cover and cook over low heat until the vegetables are quite soft, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and add broccoli rabe on top. Cover and cook until the rabe is bright green. Remove the cover and simmer until any remaining cooking liquid has been absorbed into the vegetables. Remove from heat and stir in shredded basil.

To serve, either cut or scoop polenta onto individual plates and mound vegetables on top. Serve immediately.

Makes 5-6 servings.