The Hot Traditions of Horseradish
by Christina Pirello
My image is one of maverick, going against conventional thinking. But
I have a confession to make…I’m a closet traditionalist.
I love the rituals and traditions that are passed from generation to
generation…the traditions that make us who we are, form the cores
of our beings.
Being Italian, I grew up in an environment steeped in the comfort of
tradition. As I grew to maturity (some would question that I ever did…),
I began to discover and grow enchanted by the traditions of other cultures
than my own. One of my favorites comes from Passover.
I grew up using horseradish to season beans with some yummy heat or
to create a spicy salad dressing. But it is the use of horseradish in
the Passover Seder that I find the most interesting and meaningful.
Mentioned in the Book of Exodus as one of the bitter herbs served during
Passover, horseradish is said to denote life’s bitterness, it
is also eaten to cleanse oneself of that bitterness. Such beautiful
sentiment…
A bit of information about this root. Native to Eastern Europe, horseradish
has been used in European cooking since the 16th century. Initially
popular in Central Europe and Germany, the use of horseradish eventually
spread to Scandinavia, England and France, where it is still known as
“German mustard.”
During the Middle Ages, horseradish was used for its curative properties…as
an antiseptic, diuretic, a stimulant, to aid the stomach and liver in
their work in the body and because of its high content of Vitamin C,
was used by English and German sailors to prevent scurvy and to treat
gout.
A member of the “cruciferae” family, which includes cabbage,
mustard, turnip and radish, horseradish is a perennial plant that can
grow to 3 feet in height. Its thick, knobby, hotly pungent root is usually
ready for harvest after the second or third year of growth. Left underground
until autumn, horseradish reaches its peak of flavor when the weather
turns crisply cold. The color of parsnips, horseradish can grow to 20
inches in length and 3 inches in diameter. The outer peel is tough and
wrinkled, but the inside flesh is snow white and creamy, containing
an essential oil similar to the one in mustard, imparting the characteristic
hot flavor.
When buying horseradish, look for a firm, mold-free root, with uniform
color. Fresh horseradish will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks.
For best results, wrap the root in a damp paper towel, place in a plastic
bag and store in the vegetable crisper. Once grated, horseradish can
be frozen and will keep for a long time. Once grated and pickled in
vinegar, horseradish will keep, refrigerated, for as long as 6 months.
While it can be finely minced to warm up salads, dressings, soups and
sandwich fillings; julienned to liven up stews with potato, beet, turnip
or parsnips, even grated to spice up applesauce, I think I’ll
stick to tradition and go with the basic preparation for the Passover
seder.
Pickled Horseradish
1 medium horseradish root, peeled, grated
sea salt
apple cider vinegar or fresh lemon juice
Place grated horseradish in a bowl and add a generous
pinch sea salt and vinegar or lemon juice to just cover. Toss well to
combine, transfer to a glass jar and refrigerate, covered. This will
clear you sinuses, so take it easy with this one.
Note: You can an equal amount grated beets to the horseradish and season
appropriately to create Red Horseradish. A bit sweeter and more delicately
hot, this dish is also lovely on the seder table.